The white side of the equation comes from traditional aragonite, while the red comes from the shells of forams. The pink hue found in pink aquarium sand is actually a combination of white and red. You just need to trade off the fact that the particles come in on the small side, making cleaning a bit of a chore. And there’s no doubt it’ll create a dramatic backdrop for your fish and invertebrates. It’s rich in nutrients and ideal for promoting plant growth. If you’re planning to grow plants in your reef tank, black aquarium sand is the way to go. (Lava – and obsidian – are delicate and prone to fracturing) The color’s natural, with no dyes or coatings to wash off into your tank water. Black sand forms when hot lava comes in contact with cold ocean water and breaks apart. They’re formed as a result of volcanic activity, and lava is rich in obsidian. (We’ll go into the benefits below) Black Sandīlack sand sometimes gets marketed under the name “Tahitian Moon Sand.” This is because Tahiti is known for its black sand beaches. But don’t worry: that extra color (even if it’s primarily brown…) actually does GOOD things for the health of your tank. So once your aquarium gets up and running, your gravel won’t remain pure white. Over time, the white aquarium sand gets covered in a biological film (i.e., bacteria) and becomes clogged with dirt and detritus. And the fresher your aquarium sand? The cleaner the look. However, the brightest color shows when placed against a darker background. Out of the bag, crushed coral has an appealing white coloration. As mentioned in the section above, this substrate comes from the (bleached) skeletons of dead corals (sounds bleak, doesn’t it?). If you are looking for a brighter look than the “traditional” aquarium sand, you can achieve a more brilliant, whiter color with crushed coral. For a natural, functional, and practical substrate, “traditional” aquarium sand is a straightforward choice.
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